Took the skate bike out for it’s first run since the rebuild. The new truck came with very soft bushings. Bushings control how soft/hard the steering is. In the case of a skate bike they also provide some side to side stability. I have an email into Area 51 to query about much firmer bushings.
When I checked the old ones out they were very rigid and cranked so tight they hardly turned.
All of the new parts are on. Biggest challenge was the seat post and the crank cotters. The aluminum seat post I bought is speced as the same size but it is just a hair wider. I cleaned up the old steel chromed post and will see how it works. If I need the additional length I will work on the aluminum post to thin it or look for an older spec steel post. The crank cotters are also a hair large. I still had the old ones so I refit them.
My goal now is to try the bike this evening. It is 33o C (91F) right now. Too hot for me. Once the sun gets on the horizon it will cool down. Once I see how things work I can plan on the frame restoration.
Cleaned and polished the skate bike bottom bracket and cranks. From the beginning this was going to be the toughest part to replace. The bottom bracket (BB) is an old British/I.S.O. 1.370″ X 24 tpi threading with a shell width of 68 mm. The size on the spindle is listed as 3S but does not match any I can find. Fortunately the corrosion is not too bad. I wire brushed the parts. The most corrosion is on the locking ring which should not be hard to replace. I am going to mount them and use a grease finish to protect the raw metal. The skate bike will not be exposed to rain so the covering should provide the necessary protection.
British/I.S.O. 1.370″ X 24 tpi threading
Shell width of 68 mm
Spindle width: 147mm A: 42mm B: 53mm C: 52mm
Adjustable cup on the left, fixed on the right
Sprocket 36 teeth
Exciting day for me as the skateboard parts arrived. The crank cotters came yesterday. One thing that has been bugging me is what to do about the sticker. Obviously they are no longer made. I measured the plate and it is 3 inches in diameter. Then an idea. How about a stick on reflector.
While it would be nice to have a proper sticker, my goal is not a vintage restoration but a functioning bike. The reflector will not look out of place.
The nice looking trucks cry out for the frame sandblast but they are on. I removed the rusted pedals from the cranks but with the heat wave the garage was just too hot. Enough for one night. There is still a long way to go but I am encouraged. I am hoping to try it out this weekend to see if I need to modify anything before painting.
In “Restoring my Skatebike” I described the bike and my plans to restore it. I dismantled the unit and set out to buy replacement parts. Fortunately, most are available off the shelf.
My first stop was Bay Cycle and Sports in Pickering. There were two challenges to my visit. The first had to do with the fact that I went when they were having a summer tent sale and it was packed. Thanks to the guys in the repair shop, however, I got the new wheel, tire/tube, chain, pedals and seat post. The wheel has a coaster brake, which several other skate bikes used. I always found reaching under the seat to stop inefficient, and frankly, embarrassing. The hand brake comes off easily, and the lever is held on with two screws, so I could mount it again if I want to.
The cranks proved to be a problem. While the bottom bracket (BB) is a standard size, the cranks are very short (100 mm). Removing the cranks was difficult, as the cotters that hold them on were in solid. The cranks and BB proved to be OK except for some surface corrosion. Buying a replacement would be difficult, so I decided to clean them up and reuse them. The crank cotters on the bike were corroded and damaged, but I couldn’t find replacement parts at Bay Cycle Sports. A search of the web led me to Mark Stonich at Bikesmith Design & Fabrication. A set of Grade A cotters is in transit from Minneapolis. Thanks, Mark.
On to the skateboard parts. The truck is an old school mount (2.5″ vs 2.125″), and I needed only one truck. Gord at Area 51 provided the answer with a single Tracker RT-X. Gord also gave me advice on other bits, such as the best riser for the situation. I ordered Powell/Peralta Mini Cubic 64 wheels in all black, as they match the black tire and new wheel rim.
A friend is giving me access to his sand blasting cabinet to strip the frame. Then I have to figure out how I will paint it.
In the mid 1980’s while shopping in Eaton Centre I spotted this SkateBike in Collegiate Sports. It was love at first sight and I bought it. After we moved to the country it got little use as we lived on a dirt road. For years it sat in my barn. Recently I pulled it out and set out to restore it.
This video shows the same model. One of the key issues is the seat post is only 200 mm long so unless you were a kid you could not get proper leg extension. Also the brake lever under the seat is a bit weird.
My bike is badly rusted and the tire cracked. I have been collecting up measurements to replace parts. Fortunately most of them are common. As I intend to actually use it I want to replace the wheel with a coaster brake one. The tire is 16×1.75 so finding a coaster brake unit should not pose a problem.
A longboard truck will work on the front. The included truck is an old-school mounting with 2.5″ holes front to back. Once I settle on the tire and truck/wheel I can select the appropriate riser thickness.
The biggest challenge is the cranks. The old bottom bracket is a common British/ISO unit but the cranks are only 100 mm long. The shortest unit I can find is 115 mm for BMX riding. You can see from the videos there is room for a longer crank and as I recall the short length makes for hard pedaling. This weekend I will investigate the bike parts. I may have to just restore the old BB/crank.